You know that drip... drip... drip sound driving you crazy at 2 AM? I've been there too. Last winter, my kitchen faucet decided to become a miniature waterfall. After wasting $150 on a plumber for what turned out to be a 30-minute job, I swore I'd learn how to change a faucet myself. Surprisingly? It's easier than assembling IKEA furniture.
Changing your faucet isn't just about stopping leaks. We'll cover why you'd want to replace it, what tools you actually need (no, you don't need that $200 wrench set), and walk through each step so clearly you could do it half-asleep. I'll even share my embarrassing flooded-floor story so you don't repeat my mistakes.
Key Takeaways Before We Start
- Avoid Saturday morning starts - hardware stores get packed
- Measure twice, buy once (sink holes matter!)
- Plumber's putty is your best friend and worst enemy
- Old supply lines fight back - have backups ready
Why Bother Changing Your Faucet Anyway?
That leaky faucet isn't just annoying. According to the EPA, one drip per second wastes 3,000 gallons yearly. But beyond water bills, here's why people really change faucets:
- The slow-drip symphony (my personal sleep destroyer)
- Mineral buildup choking water flow to a trickle
- Retro gold finishes clashing with your remodel
- Missing parts - like that sprayer button that vanished
- Pure upgrade fever when you see touchless models
My neighbor replaced his 1990s faucet last month and cut his water bill by 18%. Not bad for a $120 fixture!
What You'll Actually Need to Get This Done
Forget those "20 essential tools" lists. Here's what actually matters when changing a faucet:
| Tool/Material | Why You Need It | Can You Improvise? | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basin Wrench | Reach awkward nuts under sink | No - worth every penny | $12-$25 |
| Adjustable Wrench | Loosen/tighten supply lines | Pliers in a pinch | $8-$20 |
| Plumber's Putty | Waterproof seal around base | No - silicone alternative exists | $3-$7 |
| Teflon Tape | Seal threaded connections | No - leaks guaranteed without | $1-$4 |
| Flashlight/Headlamp | See dark under-sink areas | Phone light (annoying but works) | $5-$30 |
| Bucket/Towels | Catch residual water spills | Pots and rags work | Already own |
Notice what's NOT here? Pipe cutters, solder torches, or specialty drivers. Most modern faucets need basic tools only. That fancy wrench kit collecting dust? Leave it be.
Personal confession time: I once tried "saving money" using regular putty from my kid's art supplies. Two days later, gray ooze seeped around my faucet base. Stick to actual plumber's putty - it's formulated not to stain.
Choosing Your New Faucet: More Than Just Looks
Walk into any hardware store and you'll face a wall of options. Don't panic. Your buying decision boils down to three factors:
Measure Your Sink First
Count those holes! Standard setups:
- Single-hole: All-in-one faucet (most modern)
- Three-hole: Separate handles + spout (traditional)
- Four-hole: Adds soap dispenser (less common)
Grab a tape measure. Note the distance between center points of outer holes (usually 4 or 8 inches). Nothing worse than bringing home a gorgeous faucet that doesn't fit.
Material Quality Matters
Not all metals are equal:
| Material | Durability | Price Impact | My Experience |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brass (solid) | Exceptional (15+ years) | $$$ | Worth every penny |
| Brass (hollow) | Good (8-12 years) | $$ | Budget sweet spot |
| Zinc Alloy | Fair (3-5 years) | $ | Develops leaks faster |
| Plastic | Poor (1-3 years) | $ | Only for rentals |
See that "solid brass" claim? Verify by checking the underside. If it feels light or sounds tinny when tapped, it's likely hollow. Still decent, but know what you're paying for.
The Sprayer Dilemma
Pull-down? Pull-out? Side spray? Here's the real difference:
- Pull-down sprayers (vertical motion) - Great for deep sinks
- Pull-out sprayers (horizontal motion) - Better for shallow sinks
- Fixed sprayers - Fewer moving parts to break
After breaking three sprayer heads, I now prioritize models with metal hoses and magnetic docking. Plastic docking tabs snap way too easily.
The Step-by-Step Replacement Process
Enough prep talk. Let's get your hands dirty. Expect this to take 1-3 hours depending on rust battles.
Shutting Off Water Properly (Don't Skip This!)
Under your sink, find two oval valves - usually red or blue. Turn clockwise until tight. Now TRY THE FAUCET. If water still flows, either you missed a valve (less common) or need to shut off your home's main supply (annoying but doable).
Hot tip: Take photos of connections BEFORE disassembly. You'll thank yourself later.
Disconnecting Supply Lines
Place your bucket under connections. Using your adjustable wrench, loosen the coupling nuts connecting supply lines to faucet tails. Expect some water spillage - towels are your friends.
Here's where problems start. If lines won't budge:
- Spray penetrating oil (WD-40 works)
- Wait 10 minutes
- Tap stubborn nuts gently with a hammer
- Use vise grips if rounded
I once fought a corroded nut for 45 minutes. Lesson learned: Keep spare supply lines ($8 each) on hand before starting.
Removing the Old Faucet
This is basin wrench territory. Locate the mounting nuts securing the faucet to the sink. Position the wrench's pivoting head and turn counterclockwise. Yes, your arm will cramp. No, there's no graceful way to do this.
Stuck nuts? If they spin freely but won't come off, the mounting bolt is probably turning too. Have a helper hold the faucet stable from above while you wrench below.
Cleaning the Installation Site
Remove all old putty or caulk using a plastic scraper (metal scratches sinks). Wipe with rubbing alcohol for oil-free surface. Miss this step and your new seal fails faster.
Check for corrosion or cracks around holes. Minor pitting? Fill with epoxy putty. Major damage? You might need a new sink - but that's another guide.
Installing the New Faucet
- Feed faucet tails through sink holes
- Apply plumber's putty rope around base (prevents water seepage)
- Hand-tighten mounting nuts from below
- Use basin wrench for final 1/4 turn (don't overtighten!)
- Connect supply lines with Teflon tape on threads
That "hand-tighten plus quarter turn" rule? Ignore it at your peril. I cracked a sink by gorilla-tightening.
The Moment of Truth: Testing
Slowly turn water valves back on. Check EVERY connection point:
- Where supply lines meet valves
- Where lines meet faucet tails
- Around faucet base
- Sprayer connections
See a drip? Tighten slightly. Still dripping? Disconnect and reapply Teflon tape. Major leak? Shut water off immediately and reassess.
Nightmare Scenarios and Fixes
Even with planning, things go wrong. Here's what actually works:
| Problem | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Low water pressure | Aerator clogged from debris | Unscrew aerator, clean screen |
| Sprayer won't engage | Kinked supply hose | Check under-sink routing |
| Leaking base | Insufficient putty seal | Remove, reapply putty, retighten |
| Handle stiffness | Overtightened cartridge | Loosen handle set screw slightly |
| Hot/cold reversal | Supply lines crossed | Swap hot and cold connections |
That last one happened during my first DIY attempt. Nothing like scalding your hands while washing veggies.
Top Faucet Brands Compared
Based on repair frequency in my handyman days:
| Brand | Price Range | Warranty | Failure Rate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Moen | $$-$$$ | Lifetime | Low (best for DIY) |
| Delta | $$-$$$ | Lifetime | Low |
| Kohler | $$$-$$$$ | Lifetime | Medium |
| Pfister | $$ | Limited Lifetime | Medium-High |
| Glacier Bay | $ | Limited | High (avoid) |
Moen wins for availability of replacement parts locally. Kohler's finishes last longer but cost 40% more.
When to Call a Professional
Despite what YouTube shows, sometimes DIY isn't wise:
- Galvanized pipes: Old threaded connections often seize
- Access limitations: Tiny under-sink spaces
- Sink damage: Cracks requiring replacement
- Water valve failures: If shutoffs don't work
Plumber costs vary wildly:
| Service | DIY Cost | Pro Cost | Time Saved |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic faucet replacement | $100-$300 (faucet only) | $250-$500 | 1-2 hours |
| With supply line replacement | +$15-$30 | +$50-$100 | 30 mins |
| With valve replacement | +$30-$50 + sweat equity | +$150-$300 | 2+ hours |
Rule of thumb: If you're contemplating soldering or crawling through tight spaces, call a pro.
Your Top Faucet Replacement Questions Answered
Will changing a faucet affect my home's water pressure?
Only if you install a flow-restricted model or have debris clogging the aerator. Modern faucets maintain 1.5-2.2 GPM flow.
How often should faucets be replaced?
Quality units last 10-15 years. Signs you need replacement: chronic leaks despite new cartridges, visible corrosion, or stripped handles.
Can I install any faucet on my existing sink?
Not always. Vessel sinks and granite countertops often need specific configurations. Always verify compatibility before purchasing.
Why does my new faucet whistle/hum?
Usually water pressure exceeding 80 PSI. Install a pressure regulator if persistent.
Are touchless faucets worth the trouble?
For kitchens - absolutely. Prevents cross-contamination. For bathrooms - less essential but convenient. Battery life averages 1-2 years.
Maintenance Tricks for Longevity
Want your new faucet to outlast your mortgage? Do these:
- Monthly: Clean aerator screen (soak in vinegar)
- Quarterly: Lubricate moving parts with silicone grease
- Annually: Check supply lines for bulges/cracks
- Biannually: Tighten base mounting nuts slightly
Hard water areas? Install an inline sediment filter. $25 prevents 80% of faucet failures.
Changing a faucet seems intimidating until you've done it once. My first attempt took four hours and three trips to Home Depot. Last month? Forty minutes start to finish. The confidence boost alone is worth the effort. Grab that basin wrench and reclaim your Saturday.