Okay, let's talk highlights. I remember my first DIY disaster – ended up with orange streaks that made me look like a tiger reject. Took three weeks to fix. But after helping 200+ clients and doing my own hair for years, I've cracked the code on how to do highlights at home safely. You can skip the salon without sacrificing your dignity.
Real talk: Home highlights won't give you salon-perfect Babylights. But you can achieve gorgeous sun-kissed dimension for under $50. This guide covers what YouTube tutorials won't tell you.
Essential Stuff You Absolutely Need
Using kitchen foil instead of highlight caps? Big mistake. Here's the non-negotiable toolkit:
| Tool | Why It Matters | Budget Option | Pro Upgrade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Highlighting Kit | Drugstore kits cause brassiness. Always. | L'Oréal Paris Féria ($12) | Schwarzkopf BlondMe ($25) |
| Tinting Brush | Kit applicators are too thick | Eyeliner brush ($3) | Professional metal brush ($8) |
| Clips | Stop sections from bleeding | Office binder clips ($1) | Crocodile hair clips ($6) |
| Gloves | Unless you want orange palms | Kit included (free) | Reusable silicone ($5) |
- Old button-down shirt (won't smear dye pulling over your head)
- Vaseline (slather on ears/hairline)
- Timer (phone timers suck when hands are messy)
- Clarifying shampoo (removes buildup pre-color)
Skip if you: Have more than 50% gray hair, previously used henna, or want platinum highlights. Seriously, see a pro.
Choosing Your Shade: The Unspoken Rules
That box with the smiling model? Lies. Your starting hair color determines everything:
| Your Natural Color | Best Highlight Shades | Disasters to Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Dark Brown/Black | Caramel, Honey, Auburn | Anything lighter than golden blonde |
| Light Brown | Butterscotch, Beige Blonde | Platinum (requires bleach) |
| Blonde | Ash Blonde, Champagne | Copper tones (looks dirty) |
My personal hack? Mix two shades. For my medium brown hair, I combine "Light Golden Blonde" + "Medium Beige Blonde" – creates dimension salon colors charge extra for.
The Step-by-Step: How to Do Highlights at Home Without Panic
Prep Work That Actually Matters
Don't wash hair for 2 days – natural oils protect scalp. Do a strand test 48 hours prior (wrap colored strand in foil behind ear).
Pro tip: Apply coconut oil to hairline/ears before Vaseline. Easier cleanup.
Sectioning Like You Mean It
Part hair down the middle. Clip sides up. Take horizontal 1-inch sections from nape up. Mistake? Thick sections cause chunky stripes.
The Application Magic
Dip brush into mix. Paint only the strands you want lightened. Twist sections lightly. Never saturate roots first – that's how you get hot roots.
See those pieces framing your face? Make those 25% thinner than back sections. Trust me.
Processing Time Secrets
Box says 30 minutes? Check at 15. Fine hair lifts faster. Wrap highlighted sections in foil to trap heat (better lift).
Processing hack: Check one strand under foil every 5 minutes after 15 min. Rinse when it reaches pale yellow (not white!).
Salon-Worthy Results: The Washout Ritual
Rinse with lukewarm water until clear. Use included conditioner ONLY on highlighted parts. Cold water rinse seals cuticles (less frizz).
Wait 72 hours before shampooing. Use sulfate-free purple shampoo twice weekly to cancel brassiness.
My Top 3 At-Home Highlighting Kits (Tested)
| Product | Best For | Processing Time | Biggest Pro | Annoying Con |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Schwarzkopf BlondMe | Brunettes going blonde | 15-30 min | Includes anti-brass serum | Bleach smell lingers |
| L'Oréal Paris Frost & Design | Subtle sun-kissed looks | 40-50 min | Cap method is beginner-proof | Cap tangles thick hair |
| Clairol Balayage Kit | Natural-looking dimension | 25-35 min | Paint-on gel doesn't drip | Limited shade range |
Real Problems You'll Face (And How to Fix Them)
Brassy tones? Mix purple shampoo with conditioner. Leave on 10 minutes.
Patchy color? Use demi-permanent dye one shade darker than natural over highlights.
Overprocessed? Slather on Olaplex No.3 overnight before shampooing.
Red alert: If scalp burns during processing, rinse IMMEDIATELY with cool water. Permanent nerve damage is real.
FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered
Can I do highlights at home on short hair?
Easier than long hair! Use toothpick for precision. Focus on crown and face-framing pieces.
How often should I touch up home highlights?
Every 8-12 weeks. Root regrowth looks intentional if you keep highlights concentrated mid-lengths.
What's better: cap or foil method?
Beginners: cap. More control: foil. Balayage effects: freehand painting.
Can I use regular bleach for DIY highlights?
Don't. Salon bleach requires developer expertise. Kits balance pH to prevent meltdown.
Why My Last Home Highlights Failed (So Yours Won't)
I rushed sectioning. One side got thicker streaks. Looked like bad tiger stripes. Fixed it by:
- Re-applying color only to thick sections (10 min max)
- Using blue shampoo to neutralize orange
- Cutting face-framing layers to disguise unevenness
Post-Color Care: Make It Last
Hot tools fade color faster. Air-dry when possible. Deep condition weekly – I mix Aussie 3 Minute Miracle with 3 drops argan oil.
Sun exposure turns highlights brassy. Wear hats or use UV-protectant sprays. Color lasts 50% longer this way.
Look, figuring out how to do highlights at home takes practice. My first three attempts were tragic. But once you nail the sectioning and timing? You'll save thousands. Just promise me you'll strand-test first.