You know that moment when your crochet project starts looking like a balloon instead of a hat? I've been there too. Last winter I ruined three beanies because my decreases were all lumpy. That's when I finally sat down and mastered the double crochet two together stitch. This dc2tog technique changed everything for me. It's become my go-to decrease method for hats, amigurumi, and sweater sleeves. Stick with me and I'll show you exactly how to avoid the mistakes I made.
What Makes dc2tog So Special?
Let's get real about double crochet two together. It's not just some fancy term crochet designers throw around. This stitch is the secret sauce for smooth shaping. Unlike chopping off stitches randomly, dc2tog gives you a clean, angled decrease that blends right into your fabric. I remember my first attempt at a crochet shawl - the pattern said "dc2tog every 5 stitches" and I had no clue what that meant. Ended up with a trapezoid instead of a triangle! But once you get it, you'll see why it's everywhere in patterns.
Where You'll Actually Use This Stitch
- Hat crowns: That nice tapered top doesn't happen by magic
- Amigurumi limbs: Ever tried stuffing a tube-shaped arm? Doesn't work
- V-neck sweaters: Creates that perfect V-shape without puckering
- Shawl triangles: The backbone of half those Pinterest patterns
- Mittens and gloves: Finger shaping would be impossible without it
Here's the thing many tutorials won't tell you: dc2tog isn't just about making things smaller. It's about control. When you're decreasing for a doll's neck versus a blanket edge, the tension matters. Too loose and your work flares; too tight and it puckers. Took me six months to figure that balance out.
Step-by-Step dc2tog Walkthrough
Grab your hook and some scrap yarn - let's walk through this together. I'm assuming you've got basic double crochet down. If not, maybe practice that first? Seriously, don't be like me trying to learn decreases while making a gift for tomorrow's baby shower. Disaster.
The Core Process Broken Down
| Step | Action | What's Happening |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch | Setting up first half of the stitch |
| 2 | Yarn over, pull through stitch (3 loops on hook) | Standard double crochet start |
| 3 | Yarn over, pull through first 2 loops (2 loops remain) | Partial completion - STOP here! |
| 4 | Yarn over, insert hook into NEXT stitch | Beginning second stitch |
| 5 | Yarn over, pull through stitch (4 loops on hook) | Both stitches now on hook |
| 6 | Yarn over, pull through first 2 loops (3 loops remain) | Critical junction - don't rush! |
| 7 | Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops | The magic finish |
The trickiest part? Step 3. Most beginners complete the first double crochet before moving to the next stitch. That's wrong and you'll end up with two separate stitches. Ask me how I know. When teaching my niece, I tell her: "It's like making conjoined twins - they share the middle part." Weird analogy but it works.
Hook Size Matters: Using a 5mm hook? Your dc2tog will look different than with a 3.5mm. Always match your hook to the pattern's gauge recommendation. That time I used a larger hook for "better drape"? My cardigan decreases became visible holes. Not cute.
Troubleshooting Your dc2tog Problems
Even after years, I still mess up sometimes. Here are fixes for common headaches:
The Loose Stitch Dilemma
Your decreases look like little ladders? Super common. Happens when tension slackens between stitches during the double crochet two together. Try this: After pulling through the last three loops, gently tug the working yarn sideways. Not crazy tight - just enough to snug the stitches. Test different yarn holds too; I switched from pencil grip to knife grip and my tension improved.
Warning: If your fabric starts cupping, you're pulling too tight. Ease up! Better slightly loose than distorted fabric.
Counting Chaos
"Did I decrease here already?" We've all been there. For complex patterns, I place stitch markers every 5 decreases. Colorful plastic rings or even paperclips work. Last month I was decreasing for a dragon wing and forgot where I was. Three rows later... let's just say it looked more like modern art than fantasy crochet.
When dc2tog Isn't Your Best Option
Look, I love double crochet two together, but it's not always perfect. For tight curves like amigurumi eyes or flower centers, I switch to single crochet decreases. The dc2tog leaves too much space between stitches. Also, in lacy patterns where holes are desirable? Regular skips might look better than dc2tog. Learned this the hard way making a wedding shawl - the decreases stood out like road signs.
| Situation | Better Alternative | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Tight curves (amigurumi) | Sc2tog (single crochet decrease) | Creates tighter, less visible decrease |
| Vertical alignment | Invisible decrease | Eliminates the "bump" of traditional decreases |
| Lace patterns | Chain skips | Preserves openwork aesthetic |
Advanced dc2tog Applications
Once you've nailed basic double crochet two together, try these pro moves:
Paired Increases and Decreases
For symmetrical shaping like doll dresses or mittens, pair each dc2tog with an increase two stitches away. Creates balanced curves without warping. My mitten cuffs finally stopped twisting when I figured this out!
Decorative Decrease Lines
Intentional visible decreases can be design elements! Work dc2tog every fourth stitch in contrasting yarn for subtle diagonal lines. Looks fancy but takes zero extra effort. Did this on a market bag and got three commissions.
Your dc2tog Questions Answered
How many stitches does dc2tog consume?
It uses two stitches from the previous row but counts as one stitch in the current row. Big pattern-reading pitfall! That sweater sleeve that kept getting wider? Yeah, I missed that detail too.
Can I substitute sc2tog for dc2tog?
Technically yes, but it'll change your fabric. Single crochet decreases are shorter, so your shaping will be steeper. Fine for amigurumi, terrible for shawls. I tried swapping in a baby blanket - looked like it had a waistline!
Why does my dc2tog lean left or right?
Direction matters! Standard double crochet two together leans left. For right-leaning decreases in symmetrical pieces, learn front-post dc2tog. My first cardigan had one side sloping like the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Not the look I wanted.
Fix for Uneven Edges: If working flat rows, always do your dc2tog at least 2 stitches from the edge. Prevents that annoying curl that makes borders impossible.
Real Project Applications
Let's apply double crochet two together to actual patterns:
The Perfect Beanie Crown
Start decreasing when crown measures 5 inches from brim. Work *dc6, dc2tog* repeat around. Next round: *dc5, dc2tog*. Continue decreasing every round until 8-10 stitches remain. Pull yarn through and tighten. My winter hat survival rate went from 50% to 100% after nailing this sequence.
Amigurumi Leg Shaping
For cylindrical limbs: Rnd 1: dc2tog every 5th stitch. Rnd 2: dc all. Rnd 3: dc2tog every 4th stitch. Creates subtle taper without sudden narrowing. Finally stopped making doll legs that looked like sausages!
Essential Tools for Flawless dc2tog
- Ergonomic hooks: Clover Amour hooks reduced my hand fatigue by 80% during long decrease rows
- Stitch markers: Locking markers are worth the extra pennies - lost too many split rings
- Magnifying lamp: Game-changer for seeing stitch anatomy when learning
- Yarn bowl: Prevents yarn roll-away during complex maneuvers
- Tapestry needles: Blunt tips for weaving ends without splitting yarn
Look, I won't pretend double crochet two together is glamorous. It's a workhorse stitch. But mastering it? That's when you move from following patterns to designing them. Last month I created a leaf-shaped coaster using only dc2tog variations. Felt like a crochet wizard. Give it serious practice - not just a few test swatches. Dedicate a weekend to decreasing. Make ugly lumps. Then make beautiful curves. You've got this.