Let's talk Franklin halves. You probably found one in grandpa's drawer or bought it at a flea market, and now you're wondering: "Is this thing worth anything?" I get it. When I found my first 1954 Franklin half in a coffee can full of buttons, I nearly tossed it back before doing a double-take. Good thing I didn't – turns out some of these coins pay mortgages.
Franklin half dollar value isn't just about silver weight. Trust me, I learned that the hard way when I undersold a 1955 proof to a dealer who gave me melt value. Two weeks later, I saw it listed for 10x that price. This guide will save you from my mistakes by breaking down what really decides your coin's worth.
What Exactly is a Franklin Half Dollar?
The U.S. Mint made these from 1948 through 1963, honoring Ben Franklin. They contain 0.3617 oz of 90% silver, meaning even the ugliest worn-down piece is worth about $8-$10 just in silver today. But collectors pay way more for nice ones – I've seen people drop $1,500 for a single coin at auction.
Funny story: My cousin tried cleaning a dark 1948 coin with vinegar "to make it shiny." Ruined $300 in value instantly. Never clean coins – ever. Tarnish doesn't kill Franklin half dollar value like scrubbing does.
Four Factors That Make or Break Your Franklin Half Dollar Value
Condition is King (Seriously)
Grading is everything. A beat-up Franklin might get you $10. The exact same coin in pristine condition? Could be $1,000+. Here's the reality:
Grade | What to Look For | Value Range* |
---|---|---|
Worn (AG-3) | Blurry details, letters partially gone | $10-$12 |
Average (VF-20) | All letters sharp, light wear on Ben's hair | $15-$25 |
Choice (XF-40) | Minor wear on highest points only | $25-$45 |
Mint State (MS-60) | No wear, but scratches/hairlines | $35-$100 |
Gem (MS-65) | Almost perfect, sharp strike | $100-$2,000+ |
*Values exclude key dates. Silver base ≈$8-$10
Pro tip: Hold the coin at eye level under a lamp. If you see any rub on Ben Franklin's cheekbone or the Liberty Bell's edge, it's not mint state. I learned this after overgrading half my collection.
Date and Mint Mark Matter More Than You Think
Most Franklins are common. But some dates? Pure goldmines. Mint marks appear above the bell on the reverse:
- No mark = Philadelphia
- D = Denver (often more valuable)
- S = San Francisco (key for proofs)
Here are the heavy hitters that skyrocket Franklin half dollar value:
Year & Mint | Why Rare | VF-20 Value | MS-65 Value |
---|---|---|---|
1949-D | Lowest mintage: 4.1 million | $40 | $1,200 |
1953-P | Weak strikes, few high-grade | $25 | $800 |
1955-P | Proof-like issues, premium quality | $30 | $500+ |
1958-P | Last Philly year, cleaned often | $20 | $400 |
1961-P/D Proofs | Cameo contrast = big money | N/A | $300-$700 |
I once found a 1949-D in a dealer's junk silver bin priced at $12. Bought it, graded MS-63, sold for $575. Always check dates!
That Pesky "Full Bell Lines" Feature
Collectors obsess over the lines at the Liberty Bell's bottom. If they're fully visible (FBL), value jumps 50-300%. Honestly? I think this is overhyped except for top-grade coins. But since buyers pay up for it, inspect under magnification:
- FBL = All lines crisp and unbroken
- Partial = Some lines missing or weak
- None = Just a smooth curve
Example: A 1957 Franklin MS-65 might fetch $60 normally. With FBL? $150-$200. But in lower grades? Maybe $5 extra. Don't lose sleep over it on worn coins.
Silver Price vs. Collector Premium
When silver spikes, junk dealers buy any Franklin at melt. When metals drop? Collector coins hold value better. Right now (2023/24), common circulated Franklins trade around 12-15x face value ($6-$7.50 each) when silver's at $24/oz.
But collector pieces? Untouched by market swings. A 1955 proof I sold in 2020 brought $550 even with silver at $16.
Step-by-Step: How to Value Your Franklin Half Dollar
Don't trust eBay "listings" – scammers ask $5,000 for $20 coins. Follow this instead:
- Identify date/mint: Look above the bell for D or S. No mark? Philadelphia issue.
- Check for wear: Rub your fingernail over Franklin's cheek. If it catches, it's circulated.
- Look for damage: Cleaning, scratches, or holes? Collector value gone. Melt price only.
- Compare to photos: Use PCGS Photograde (free online) to match condition.
- Consult actual sales: Search sold listings on eBay or Heritage Auctions.
Warning: Grading companies (PCGS/NGC) charge $25-$50 per coin for certification. Only worth it if you suspect MS-65+ or have a key date. Sent a common 1962-D MS-63 last year – grading fees ate my profit.
Franklin Half Dollar Value in Today's Market (2023/24)
Current ballpark ranges based on recent auctions. Remember: dealer offers will be 10-20% lower.
Type | Low End | Mid Range | High End |
---|---|---|---|
Common circulated | $9 (melt) | $12-$15 | $25 (VF+) |
Uncirculated rolls (20 coins) | $250 | $350-$550 | $1,000+ (full bell lines) |
1949-D MS-64 | $400 | $600 | $800 |
1953-S MS-66 FBL | $150 | $250 | $400 |
Proof coins (cameo) | $30 | $50-$150 | $700 (deep cameo) |
Noticed prices dipped slightly last quarter? Me too. But key dates held steady while common BU coins softened. Smart money's buying quality over quantity.
Where to Sell for Maximum Franklin Half Dollar Value
Tried all these myself. Results vary wildly:
- Local coin shops: Fast cash, but expect 60-70% of retail. My worst offer? $45 for a $150 coin.
- eBay: 13% fees, but reaches millions. Sold a 1958 MS-66 for $420 there last month after my shop offered $200.
- Heritage Auctions: Great for rare pieces ($2,000+). Fees up to 20%, but competitive bidding.
- Coin forums (Reddit r/Coins): Avoid fees, but risky without escrow. Lost $85 on a "trusted" deal once.
For common dates? Pawn shops pay melt value – avoid. For gems? Auction houses are worth the commission.
Franklin Half Dollar FAQ: Real Answers from a Collector
Are all Franklin halves 90% silver?
Yes! Every single one made from 1948-1963 is 90% silver, 10% copper. No exceptions. Even if it looks bronze from toning.
Is there a 1964 Franklin half dollar?
Nope. They switched to Kennedy halves after JFK's assassination. I've seen fakes – don't fall for it.
Should I clean my tarnished coin?
God no. Cleaning destroys surfaces and kills collector value. That black toning? Often increases worth. My vinegar disaster cost me $300.
Why do some 1948 coins have a bug?
That's designer John R. Sinnock's initials (JS). Not a bug! Some counterfeits miss this detail – always check.
Are proofs worth more?
Absolutely. Mirror-like proofs (especially with cameo contrast) command huge premiums. A 1950 proof? Maybe $50. Same year with deep cameo? Up to $700.
Straight Talk: Are Franklin Halves a Good Investment?
Honest take after 15 years collecting:
- Common dates: Barely beat inflation. Better off buying silver bullion.
- Key dates in MS-65+: Solid 5-7% annual growth. My 1949-D gained 40% in 8 years.
- Proofs with cameo: Hot market now. But volatile – I'd only buy certified.
Biggest risk? Overpaying for "BU" coins that turn out cleaned or damaged. Happened to me twice. Now I only buy slabbed coins for big purchases.
Final thought: Franklin half dollar value hinges on details amateurs miss. That "shiny" coin in your drawer? Could be $10 melt... or $1,500 if it's a pristine 1953. Get a magnifier, check dates carefully, and whatever you do – don't clean it! Got questions? Hit me in the comments.